Chancay textiles are extraordinarily varied and, almost without exception, executed with remarkable virtuosity. From gauzes and openwork embroidery to painted plain weave and tapestry, the weavers explored some of the most technically demanding techniques. Openwork, which ultimately derives from the ancient coastal fishing tradition of net-making, reached new heights of lacy intricacy. On most gauze and openwork cloths, only the weaver could see the motifs during their creation, as the threads pulled together when not under the tension of the loom. As a result, once the textile was removed from the loom, its designs often became illegible—especially when the piece was folded, as in women’s headcloths. This characteristic reflects the Andean value placed on essence over appearance.