50" x 31'6" in.
An invitation to create a visual response to the ancient textile pieces in the 2023 summer exhibition "Continuities: 2000 years of Female Art in South America" led Tonia Gunstone on a rich and rewarding journey of discovery. In her research on Wari textiles, crafted exclusively by women more than 1200 years ago, she virtually traveled to the coastal deserts of Peru. There, she engaged in the practice of tie-dyeing and immersed herself in the spirituality of the Wari culture, significantly reflected in their textile work.
These textiles, often created on deeply saturated grounds using a discontinuous warp and weft technique, showcased individually woven sections connected by uncut scaffolding threads. This method underscored the Wari belief that cloth held a life force, which would be destroyed if cut. Embracing the organic nature of these works, Tonia made her virtual way to Toronto for a lesson in botanical ink-making before returning to her home in a hilltop village in a western corner of Wiltshire. There, she gathered plants such as hollyhock, elderberry, goldenrod, and rosehip, spending three months experimenting with the alchemical process of handmade plant inks and dyes.
Tonia’s response centered on a tie-dyed child's tunic created circa 800 AD. The tunic’s geometric and repeating L-shape motif captured the symmetry of the design, demonstrating the artistic and mathematical sophistication of the Wari culture. The choice of color and motif in the tunic spoke to a cultural tradition rich in symbolism and storytelling, inviting viewers to unravel the mysteries woven into its threads. Using all-natural materials, she created a piece of woven paper, reflecting her deep respect for the women who crafted these complex, ancient Peruvian textiles. Their immense skill, creativity, and cultural heritage have endured through generations.
Her project not only pays homage to the Wari textiles but also bridges ancient and modern practices, showing how traditional techniques and beliefs can inspire contemporary art. Her woven paper piece stands as a testament to the enduring influence of these remarkable women and their timeless contributions to art and culture.